Of use So far the major organic dairy producers have managed to cash in on the widespread popular view of pure simple pastoral animal friendly organic food without acknowledging how little their wares justify the image In fact milk is one of the fastest growing segements of the organic market But this is one gift horse that really should be looked in the mouth Why should we support new style versions of factory farming clad in the airs of moral superiority to factory farming p59 If you could see and taste the milk of one cow s doe s we s or woman s milking cycle from the time she stops producing colostrum to the time when the young animal says farewell to nursing it would be shot through with huge variations Milk shifts in makeup not only throughout one lactation but from the beginning to the From Notes to Narrative: Writing Ethnographies That Everyone Can Read end of one day Indeed the first and last mouthfuls than an infant swallows at a single nursing ordinarily differ in composition the final dribs and drabs being the highest in fat And this is to ignore the uestion of how one individual cow s doe swe s or woman s milk differs from that of others in her species herd or bridge club p 62 Skim milk has the most lactose while cream and butter have the most casein I found this xtremely interesting My husband has always said that he thinks he is slightly lactose intolerant but when one considers that he usually has trouble with cream and butter rather than lower fat percentage milkscreamsyogurts it seems to point to a problem with casein and not lactose And so I think I may now know where our daughter got her casein allergy issues That is correct I have read a 300 book about milk I m now that much likely to bore my acuaintances with all sorts of fun details about food that I have learned from this book I AM GREAT AT PARTIES I am a mostly vegan so I didn t try any of the recipes but I really loved the first sections about the History of milk I went into the book xpecting to have to wade through a lot of pro dairy industry anti vegan stuff to get to the history but I was pleasantly surprised Mendelson a passionate dairy lover did a fantastic job of presenting the facts about human consumption of non human milk through the ages including the dark side I am currently on a history of various food staples reading spree and I m glad I picked this one up An Doris Salcedo enjoyable history of dairy products from the beginnings of human civilization to now Meldelson has a three pronged approach shexamines what humans do with milk how that s changed over time and it has changed drastically and the science behind it al I am no foodie While other kids were dreaming about jet packs and flying cars my favorite childhood sci fi fantasy was the invention of a pill that would obviate the need for three meals a day freeing up my time for less burdensome pursuits There was a solid year and a half during middle school when I ate the same Stouffer s microwave dinner literally Twelve Days of Pleasure every single night In fact I amassednough proofs of purchase to send away for various prizes through the mail including a copy of Robert Redford s 1992 adaptation of A River Runs Through It on VHS Incredibly I never remember getting tired of this routine I just wanted not to be hungry I didn t really care how my dinner tasted And while my cooking skill and culinary range have greatly xpanded since becoming an adult out of a desire for the basic self respect that comes with going out to a restaurant with friends without having to coerce the chef into making me a
grilled cheese sandwich food never be my source of soulful joy in life And that s fine because I cheese sandwich will never be my source of soulful joy in life And that s fine because I booksI go into all this because one of the only xceptions to my general malaise around food is and has always been dairy I ve always loved fresh milk and cheese Even before I read Anne Mendelson s Gustave Caillebotte: The Painter's Eye excellent book on the subject I was already in the habit of shelling out for organic non homogenized milk in amazingly appealing glass bottles which I have actually taught myself to remember to load into the panniers for return whenever David and Imbark on another grocery run That is how much I love milk But I don t love it anywhere near as well as Mendelson and she has the literary chops to do justice to her passionBefore going any further taste the milk Concentrate you attention on what s in your mouth something Grand Illusion: The Third Reich, the Paris Exposition, and the Cultural Seduction of France ethereally subtle but concretely there This milk has a kind of roundness or depth that the homogenizeduivalent doesn t The reason is that the contrast between its leaner and richer components hasn t been ironed out but remains just delicately palpable Its flavor is not so much flavor as a sensation of freshness on the palate that scarcely translates into words Sweetness is as close as anything but it s an lusive note on the thin dge of perception rather than sugar in your coffee sweetnessIsn t that lovely Sometimes it truly is the simplest thing that inspires Great Plains: America's Lingering Wild elouenceIn addition to its high test writing Milk is one of the most physically beautiful books I havever held in my hands You can see the gorgeous cover art at the beginning of this review but that s really just the tip of the iceberg The dust jacket has a slightly antiue y stippled texture that invites touching and ven the pages are creamy and textured than usual which is fitting in a treatise on the delights of textural unhomogenized dairy products There are vintage line drawings throughout the book and although they come from different sources they all contribute to a coherent ambiance Merely leafing through Milk is a pleasureAs is diving in and reading the thing Mendelson s text is an interesting amalgam of different literary genres part food history part chemistry lesson part political treatise and part recipe collection She begins by tracing the history of dairying in its four major seats the Diverse Sources Belt aka Yogurtistan the modern day Near and Middle East the Bovine and Buffalo Belt the Indian subcontinent the Northeastern Cow Belt modern day Eastern Europe and Russia and the Northwestern Cow what she calls the
Northwestern Cow Belt Northern Europe Cow Belt northern Europe Britain North America She shows us how milk reached such prominence in our diet in the nineteenth century that it led to the current practice of overbreeding cows and overprocessing dairy products Her lucid xplanation of the chemical intricacies of milk and the simple home Electromyography for Experimentalists experiments shencourages us to try are a revelation of how pure milk products should really tasteThe delightfully wide ranging recipes that follow are grouped according to the main dairy ingredient fresh milk and cream yogurt cultured milk and cream butter and true buttermilk fresh cheeses We learn how to make luscious Clotted Cream magical Lemon.
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You will never look at the dairy section of the supermarket the same again but in a good way I can t help but pick up a container of milk and think of the sheeps and goats grazing near the Tigres Euphrates River in ancient times that gave us our first dairy products The first half of the book traces the history of human use of animal milk from the Forgetful of Their Sex: Female Sanctity and Society, ca. 500-1100 earliest domestication of animals to modern dairy farms The second half of the book contains recipes thatncourage cooks to make choices that go beyond choosing from 1 percent or skim milk The author is a very nthusiastic advocate of fresh raw milk products and forms of dairy products from the Middle East and India She wants people to branch out beyond cow s milk Supposedly milk from water buffalo is very tasty I know you can get a lot of different food products in New York City but I have yet to come across thatThe diversity of animal sources was interesting specially learning how certain sections of the world never turn to cows for milk Until refrigeration and modern transportation fresh milk was a rarity all over the world reserved for those who live close nough to milk a cow Dairy products like yogurt and sour cream were commonThe book talked a little about the history of milk in New York and other American cities People looking to arn a uick buck turned to fraudelent milking practices Think of them as Bernie Milk Madoffs They would take cows into the city and put them into a cramped space next to distilleries They would feed the cows the leftover grains from the distilleries which led to very unnutritious milk They would add whiteners to make the milk look like it was supposed to Many people got sick and died from this swill milk until the authorities and politicians listened to the public and cracked down on the practiceHope you are Wicked Loving Lies enjoying your morning coffee perhaps with a little cream The five stars are for the cover I m not going to actually read it I reserved this after Tamara put it on the front page and I fell in love with the cover I wanted to see if the lettering was hand done a la The Principles of Uncertainty or if it was a font It seems to be a font adjusted to different sizes and not lined up on parallel lines very interesting The book didn t say what the font was so I consulted the internets and look A blog post written by the cover designer Everything I wanted to know and Man I love the internet sometimes This book is a good read but I rated it 4 stars instead of 5 because I was hoping it would cover the topic in depth The recipes take up a majority of this book the history part does not which when you consider the subtitle The surprising story of milk through the ages I think you would be surprised too Howeverven though the majority of the historybackground lesson La heredera del mar ends on page 72 she talks in depth about the various dairy products individually like milk buttermilk butter yogurttc in the recipe section The recipe section is really awesome and I want to own this book now just for that I borrowed it from the library Even though she didn t get into the history of milk as much as I wanted her to I feel that I still learned uite a bit than I have already researching the topic on the Internet Some of the things I learned What she deems the Northwestern Cow Belt Northern Germany the Low Countries northern France British Isles southern Scandinavia is home to the only people that retain the ability to digest lactose into adulthood However this small region of fresh milk usage xported their ideas about drinking fresh rather than sour milk all over the world Later on science figured out that wasn t such a great idea and that most other people in the world can t digest fresh milk We ve bred our cows to be able to produce milk but it is lower uality as far as cream and nutrients are concerned In 1865 a top cow produced 7 gallons of milk a day In 1975 the record was set at 19 gallons a day In 1997 that record was broken at 23 gallons a day The designation whole though legally sanctioned is misleading inasmuch as the milk has been separated by centrifuge and recombined to an arbitrary standard In most states it means a mixture of nonfat milk and cream homogenized to a 325 percent milkfat content p 79 Zero was asily attainable through centrifuging but centrifuged skim milk lacked the "Flavor Saving Smidging Of "saving smidging of that remained in the milk after hand skimming For a long time the hardest sell remained skim milk and for good reason The usual commercial versions are a singularly thin vapid travesty of decent hand skimmed milk But ventually processors hit on the strategem of using dried skim milk solids to add body and selling the result under names like Skim Milk Plus Despite any promotional malarkey on the label the real differenece between this and plain skim milk is not xtra creaminess or richness but lactose and casein p47 The ogranic dairying business is tremendously concentrated with the great preponderance of milk coming from three or four very large producers owned by vast agribusiness conglomerates The biggest facilities are in
the Rocky Mountain and West Coast states and milk regularly travels thousands of miles from there to reachRocky Mountain and West Coast states and milk regularly travels thousands of miles from there to reach shelves throughout the country As with conventional milk gigantic farm operations with several thousand cows now dominate the business The largest farms depend on the same breeding and feeding methods as their conventional counterparts including high nergy rations to increase volume thrice daily milking and as much confinement with as much restriction of access to grazing as the managers can get away with The NOSB regulations mention access to pasture and to the outdoors generally without spelling out how much or little Milk ntering the pool at large organic dairies is separated and homogenized by the same arbitrary numbers games as conventional milk The milk is also usually ultrapasteurized the better to transport it across vast distances and permit weeks rather than days between time of milking and time. Part cookbook with than 120 Aramaic Bowl Spells: Jewish Babylonian Aramaic Bowls Volume One enticing recipes part culinary history part inuiry into thevolution of an industry Milk is a one of a kind book that will forever change the way we think about dairy productsAnne Mendelson author of Stand Facing the Stove first Xenophon And His World (Historia Einzelschriften) explores thearliest Old World homes of yogurt and kindred fermented products made primarily from sheep’s and goats’ milk and soured as a natural conseuence of climate Out of this ancient heritage from lands that include Greece Bosnia Turkey Israel Persia Afghanistan and India she mines a rich source of culinary traditionsMendelson then takes us on a journey through the lands that traditionally only consumed milk fresh from the. Ow Belt western Europe including the British Isles One of the major takeaways from her text is that the way the majority of westerners now think of milk best cooked with and consumed in its fresh unsoured state is very unusual in the world wide history of dairying Fresh milk drinking was originally pioneered in the Northewestern Cow Belt the youngest of the four main dairying regions and the one whose inhabitants unlike most of the word happen to possess a rare genetic ability to digest lactose into adulthood It only gained currency world wide due to the rampant imperialism and cultural arrogance of Western Europe which applied its own standards of food uality to all the diverse peoples it colonized Ironically by the time the British and French were acting all snooty about the savages ignorant sour milk drinking habits they had forgotten that the consumption of unsoured milk was a relatively new development ven on Albion s bonny shores and felt secure in their convictions that no child could be strong and healthy without a daily dose of fresh sweet milkImperialism Amazing all the places it s insinuated its dirty hooks isn t itMendelson goes on to lament the homogenization of the dairy consuming scene in the West Although she loves fresh milk and cream she points out how much we ve lost by narrowing our conception of good milk to an xclusively Western European model She then gives the reader a brief tour of the state of modern corporate dairying which has devolved into a race to produce Groove: An Aesthetic of Measured Time ever greater uantities of anver insipid product at high cost to the health of the cows involved The sections about the bovine health problems caused by breed and feed tactics were nauseating and made me an One Wild Weekend even stronger convert to buying unhomogenized milk from local grass fed cows despite thexpense Mendelson Forgetful of Their Sex ends on a positive note though the influx of Turkish Indian and Eastern European immigrants to the Western centers means that a diversity of dairy traditions is beginning to be restored to the American scene and she stronglyncourages readers to seek out these rich and varied dairy options I don t mean to give the impression that Mendelson s book is a dire political slog Her writing style is often delightfully pithy as when she discusses the sweetened commercial soy milks created from improbable faragoes of ingredients or when she announces I will not attempt to describe the labyrinthine USDA milk price support system which baffles my comprehension and probably hasn t been understood by the last five secretaries of agriculture I found Milk to be a frothy mixture of interesting information delivered in a passionate personable voice Not being the kind of person who devours cookbooks for pleasure I didn t read the recipe section that follows cover to cover I skipped the meat based recipes for one thing since I don t touch the stuff But I have to admit that Mendelson s recipe section is not your average cookbook Naturally Naughty Wicked Willing each division fresh milk yogurt cultured milk and cream butter and true buttermilk and fresh cheeses is accompanied by a short but lovelyssay detailing the basic food chemistry involved with F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby each milk product and a survey of the various takes on the same theme found in different world traditions And because I m a milknthusiast at least compared with my feelings about other foods there were a glut of recipes for things I love to Walled (The Line, eat Lassis Clotted cream Saag Panir Custard Fresh spreadable cheeses Oh myThe fact thatven I who can t be bothered with food so thoroughly njoyed Milk is truly a testament to its appeal I can only imagine how much a dedicated food lover would glean from its pages Thus far I am loving this book Mendelson looks at the history of milk using taste as her rule She does look critically at the modern dairy industry but rather than bemoan the decrease in the health benefits of milk the poor treatment of dairy
Cattle Or The Corporateor the corporate of the dairy industry she talks about the loss of richness flavor in our modern versions of an ancient food source The recipes are an added benefit as you learn about a dairy product and can then go and try to recreate a product that would most likely be unaccessible at your local grocery If you are interested in food who isn t then give this a try Anne Mendelson xplores the history of milk starting with the prehistoric origins of goat and sheep domestication and nding with modern large scale dairies I found her writing ntertaining and wished the history section was longer I was glad that she didn t just gloss over the science but really delved into the particulars The book also contains a number of recipes for milk products and dishes "from around the world I really miss being able to consume dairy products so I thought it might "around the world I really miss being able to consume dairy products so I thought it might fun to read Milk However reading it just left a bad taste in my mouth This has nothing to do with the recipes which seem well researched and tested with relatively asy to follow instructions The author s food snobbery really got to me after a while though surely it would have been sufficient for her to state once clearly before very recipe section that she thinks it would be better to use milk that is unhomogenized and if possible pasteurized slowly at a lower temperature rather than saying it in Tempting Fate every recipe Should you be tempted to undertake preparing some of the recipes in this book you should be aware that they are mostmphatically not for the budget conscious cook You ll need to buy beg borrow or steal a double boiler stockpots of varying sizes rennet tablets the aforementioned artisanal milk in udder busting uantities the correct kind of cheesecloth not the kind you can get in the grocery store the author says this repeatedly as well and something called a Flame Tamer to keep your dairy delights at the proper temperature It all sounds lovely but so xpensiveThat being said the book is an interesting read and I do recommend it to anyone who s curious about the cultural history of milk and can afford to try the recipes. Curd that beautiful uasi cheese Mascarpone as well as homemade yogurt sour cream true buttermilk and homemade butter She gives us comfort foods such as Milk Toast and Cream of Tomato Soup alongside Panir and Chhenna from India Here too are old favorites like Herring with Sour Cream Sauce Beef Stroganoff a New Englandish Clam Chowder and the legant Russian Easter dessert Paskha And there are drinks for One Giant Leap every season from Turkish Ayran and Indian Lassis to Batidos Latin American milkshakes and an authentic hot chocolate This illuminating book will be anssential part of any food lover’s collection and is bound to win converts determined to restore the purity of flavor to our First Fo.